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Tapas at Raval are no-nonsense, but fun

Tapas are Spanish snacks designed to take the edge off one's hunger until a traditional lunch, (la comida) and dinner, (la cena) are served.

The word comes from the Spanish for cover, tapar, and its origin is debated even in Spain. Some say the cover, a tapa, was originally a slice of ham or chorizo designed to keep flies out of a glass of sherry. Others say wise tavern owners realized that salty foods drove thirst and therefore, more beverages were ordered when tapas were available. Whatever its origin, tapas have become not only what is eaten but a lifestyle and spirit of eating.

Raval takes its name from a neighborhood in Barcelona, and it shares with that neighborhood the same regeneration and gentrification that Upper King has undergone. Raval dispenses the tapas spirit with authenticity. Dark woodwork, flickering candles, mirrors and the vibrant artwork nail the tapeo vibe.

No reservations, no tables, and a service mode that requires your going up to the bar to place your order, eat and then repeat as many times as schedule and appetite allow. You enter, snag a seat at a dark wood counter, or take advantage of a shelf that lines the sides of the small, intimate space.

Tapas bars are social spots. They are part of a communal bar culture that feels very much at home in the Design District of Upper King. Raval is serious about its Spanish wines and pours from an extensive cellar. It also features a traditional cocktail, the "cali" — Kalimoxto ($3.50) of red wine and Coke, and it must be Coke just as its sister drink, the Rebujito is made with Manzanilla and Sprite and it must be Sprite and not Seven-Up (not on the menu at Raval). The Spanish Moss ($7.50) offers sweet refreshment based on Mount Gay, soda, lemon, pineapple and Midori. Fans of the bubbly will enjoy Spain's answer to Champagne in Cava poured au naturale or as an enhanced cocktail with black currant, apricot-pear, mango or pomegranate juices. We were surprised that sherry did not feature more prominently on the bar menu. Alhambra and Damm cervezas are also available, and these Spanish beers are good matchups for the tapas.

Since Raval's opening in 2005, the menu has been streamlined and if you peeked into the window where the tapas are prepared, you can understand why. The traditional red enamel ham slicer, a fryer and grill are the hardware of their tapas chef.

Marcona Almonds ($4), those fleshy, juicy almonds of Andalucia, are wonderfully greaseless. They are usually fried in oil and salted, a perfect bar food, but messy to eat. Raval's version has little oily feel. The Serrano Ham Plate ($7) features the mountain ham — jamon serrano — so named because its aging takes place at high elevations it is nearly transparent, taut, salty and served with thin crisps of grilled bread that beats peanuts and pickled eggs any day of the week.

It would not be a tapas bar without Patatas Bravas ($6), crisply fried potatoes served with allioli, the garlic mayonnaise of France and Spain and fiery red brava sauce based on tomatoes and spiced with cayenne. Combine them for the best of all flavors. Grilled Asparagus ($5) were tightly wrapped with ham the thinness of tissue and lined up on the platter with all the precision of a bandillero.

Hummus ($7) was bland and the Andalusian Meatballs ($5) tasted more like Monza's recipe than albondigas in a chile, chorizo and tomato-based sauce. The grill turns out crisp Ham and Cheese Bocadillos ($8) with molten Manchego mediating the salty tang of the serrano.

Chocolate Truffles ($5) with their scant incendiary addition of dried chile continue as the dessert mainstay.

Service can be scattered as the place begins to pulse with the crowd coming in for the lounge scene.

Raval remains true to the boisterous spirit of tapas and translates this cherished Spanish tradition with authenticity and fun. Its funky charm continues to please at the front of the house, and it celebrates a buoyant nightlife in its Moorish-styled lounge in the back. And for that we say buen provecho.