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Daniel Island Grille

By Deidre Schipani

Think of it as a trade: in with the black and tan (as befitting a sports bar), out with the glitter and gold. Outside with the bar, inside with flat-screen TVs and their crisp, high-definition images. Out with Arlaana's, in with the Daniel Island Grille, a sports pub and eatery.

Owner and managing partner Thomas Dowling has promised his patrons a commitment to "being a neighborhood place" and "hospitality as a core value." On that note, the "grille" does not disappoint.

On any given day, mountain bikes and beach cruisers along with Bugaboos and Gracos line the sidewalk on Seven Farms Drive. "Coach" Dowling makes the rounds, advising a young server to clear a table, cheerfully serving crostini so a guest can mop up his mussel appetizer's tomato broth and managing the play book of seating on the popular outdoor patio.

Like most sports bars, the menu is heavy on wings ($7.95-$35.98), served here in increments of 10 up to 50, as well as burgers ($7.95), sliders ($5.95-$6.95), ribs ($7.95, $14.95) and sandwiches.

You won't go wrong on these "plays." The pulled pork sliders ($6.95) are tender tangles of shredded pork shoulder served with the house barbecue sauce, too sweet for my taste, seasoned with cumin and a tad "sticky." The Angus beef sliders ($5.95) scored a touchdown for us.

The meat had the sweet, mineral flavor of "old-timey" steer, the pickles were crisp, the tomato slices ripe and the buns had flavor and texture. And you can always "double-dog down" with Nathan's hot dogs ($5.95).

The shrimp po' boy ($7.95) is a great value, served with local shrimp at the time of our visit and classic remoulade sauce.

The only offside in this item was a bready roll that overpowered the quantity of panko-crusted shrimp.

Quesadillas ($5.95) can be enhanced with chicken ($2) or shrimp or pork ($3) and make a tasty appetizer to share.

Kudos to the kitchen staff for producing a crisp, homemade slaw, the old-fashioned kind with shredded cabbages and carrots, a splash of vinegar and mayonnaise.

Additional kudos for offering both entree and side portions of salads.

However, the shoestring fries ($1.95) cool off too quickly to enjoy, and sweet potato fries ($2.25) require the timing of a quarterback as they succumb quickly to crunch and burn.

A fish taco ($8.95) carried to a first down with fresh grouper but fumbled with too little fish and bits of tomato and shredded lettuce. It recovered nicely with the sweet heat of its pineapple relish and a requested side of that remoulade sauce served with the po' boy.

The shrimp and grits ($13.95), seasoned with bacon bits and grilled Andouille sausage packed a flavor punch, but the grits coalesced on the sidelines — bland and spent, a culinary corn glue.

The Pork Osso Bucco ($13.95) was rendered tender by its preparation but had that dried-mouth feel that low and slow can do to that piece of pigskin. And truly, who goes to a sports bar and expects to see lemon syrup (unless in a drink) and wasabi cream fraiche on salmon? Throw that fish on some alder wood and then we can talk point spread.

Service is carried on the backs of a young staff, many of them students, and their sense of timing and sequencing of dishes can falter. But with Dowling, chef Patrick Fitz and their team of industry veterans, these rookies one day will be pros.

Families will find a better than average kids menu with grilled chicken strips, pasta with butter and parmesan cheese or tomato sauce, hand-breaded panko-crusted chicken fingers, dessert and a drink for $5.95. Or get them those sliders for perfectly sized kid cuisine.

On tap you will find Daniel Island Lager, Shock Top, SweetWater 420 and Kona Longboard, not to mention an extensive assortment of beers by the bottle.

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