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Celebrating a decade, Mondo's still a local favorite

By Deidre Schipani

Mondo's celebrates 10 years in the restaurant business this year.

This is no small accomplishment as we see popular restaurant closures occur regularly. The foods of Italian-Americans rank in the top of the trinity of cuisines beloved by the dining-out public — Italian, Mexican and Chinese.

What we experience here in the Italian-American dining-out experience is the adaptive cuisine of the Italian immigrants who brought their "tables" to this country from 1880 to 1924.

They did not find a ready resource for their native ingredients: strains of oregano, San Marzano tomatoes, fruity and fragrant olive oils, cured meats, buffalo mozzarella and the like.

The folks at Mondo's have managed to channel into our loyalty and culinary love affair with the red-sauced, ricotta-stuffed, garlic-oil perfumed foods of the Italian south and they have done it very well.

They have wisely provided their diners with an option for portion control with salads available in full and half sizes, soups by the cup or bowl, pastas simply sauced or topped with chicken, salmon, shrimp or veal. Even meatballs come by the "each."

The food is generous in serving, restrained in pricing and satisfying to the many devotees of Mondo's.

We began with Prosciutto Wrapped Artichoke Hearts ($10). They were grilled, stuffed with goat cheese, baked until the cheese softened, drizzled with balsamic vinegar and fruity olive oil. A dish that married sweet, salty, soft, crispy, its only negative was the prosciutto, too thickly cut so that the girdle of this air-cured ham gave resistance and chewiness as you cut into the vegetable.

Stuffed Portabello Mushroom Caps ($9), Mussels in Lemon Thyme Broth ($9) and a Mixed Olive Plate ($3.50) prepare your palate for the entrees.

An Antipasto Salad ($9.50, $6.50) beds down leafy romaine with a chiffonade of cappicolla, salami and mozzarella, uncurling salty and soft flavors amid roasted peppers, red onions, tomatoes, artichoke hearts and an emulsified balsamic dressing. Mondo's delivers with Greek, Caesar, Spinach, Gorgonzola and House Salad options, all generous in size.

The latter was served with the Eggplant Parmesan and featured assorted crisp greens, cucumbers, tomatoes, sprouts, red onions, carrots, sunflower seeds and an emulsified balsamic dressing.

After the Eggplant Parmesan ($11) and Chicken Cutlet Parmesan ($12), the entrees are purely pastas from the menu. The special board includes other choices including meats and seafood.

The ingredients are of good quality; the kitchen pays attention to timing and the ability to add to or subtract from the dishes all go in Mondo's favor.

Sausage Rigatoni ($12) is substantial and satisfying — butterflied links of sausage bring both crispy bits of flavor and a spicy platform to the pasta. Marinara sauce is made toothsome with the addition of mushrooms and cubes of mozzarella cheese and grated Pecorino Romano bind the flavors together.

Meatballs can be added to any dish and at $1.25 could be a wonderful starter. Beef and veal are combined with a gentle hand, a generous portion of herbs and cooked to a tender finish.

We tried the Eggplant Parmesan ($11) and you will be pleased with the thin slices of eggplant, whose potential bitterness was avoided by skillful prep work, layered with spinach, tomato slices, mozzarella cheese and a generous slather of marinara sauce. Its side dish of house salad makes this entree a steal.

With 17 other entree options plus the ability to add, subtract and top, as well as the daily specials, Mondo's is a place you will return to often.

The only misstep was Penne Pasta Piccata ($16). It sounded light, refreshing and easy on the taste buds with lemon caper sauce, sun-dried and Roma tomatoes, all tossed together with a pen-shaped pasta and local shrimp. The dish did not come together; all the elements were not bound by either ingredients or sauce.

Desserts were tiramisu, chocolate mousse and the gelato of the day. The tiramisu is light and balanced in flavors with espresso and cocoa. The cherry gelato of the day was enjoyed by my guest. Having just returned from Italy, I found the intensity and perfume that made Italian gelato excel was lacking.

Service is attentive. With reservations available for parties of six or more, the staff hustles to serve, clear and re-set.

It was easy to see why Mondo endures. They work their way into your affections by delivering Italian favorites with integrity and abbondanza. And if we rated for value, Mondo earns four stars.

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